A French Celebrity Chef Finds a Spot in a Lexus-Owned Space

Before even getting to the food, there’s the look of this new Chinese restaurant on the Upper West Side: subdued elegance in a muted color scheme, marble tabletops and a mural of mountains and towers done by the artist Qiu Anxiong in the style of traditional Chinese watercolors. One owner, Haocheng Sun, is an art collector. Though the menu includes some popular items, like soup dumplings, pot stickers and dan dan noodles, it also offers a feast for those with uninhibited tastes for robust seasoning and offal. There’s spicy duck tongue, chicken feet with two spices, Xiang-style stinky tofu and deep-fried pork intestine. More conventional are cumin-flavor lamb in a dry wok and sautéed spicy littleneck clams. Pan-fried shrimp in garlic sauce are prepared tableside. The chef, Kaiyuan Li, is a 20-year veteran of the New York restaurant scene who touches on several regions but focuses on Hunan. He cooked at Hunan Manor in Midtown, which Ligaya Mishan praised in a Hungry City review.

258 West 109th Street, 646-928-0522, atlaskitchennyc.com.

An all-day menu with an emphasis on vegetables and boldly seasoned global fare, like roasted squash with smoked paprika, and cumin- and garlic-roasted carrots, distinguishes this Upper West Side addition. It’s a partnership between Tea Pollock, a geneticist with a passion for food who lives in the neighborhood, and the chef, Ben Vaschetti, another local. (Monday)

464 Amsterdam Avenue (82nd Street), 212-499-4111, mokum.nyc.

This restaurant (the name says it all) tucked into a new hotel tower is managed by Yves Jadot and Alberto Benenati, who have a diverse portfolio of places around Manhattan. For now, they’re serving only breakfast; lunch and dinner are coming soon. Next month, Dear Irving on Hudson, a bar and lounge, will open on the hotel rooftop.

Aliz Times Square, 310 West 40th Street, 646-609-5122, alizhotel.com.

Red-sauce Italian in a setting bedecked with vintage items is the work of Will Durollari, a chef, and his sons, Arben and Kuj Durollari, who work in fashion. The executive chef, Andrea Cinus Napolitano, is interpreting the Durollaris’ family recipes, including braised meatballs and a banana cake.

523 Ninth Avenue (39th Street), 212-517-0939.

Mediterranean fare all day, with an emphasis on North African and Israeli cooking, is what you’ll find at this new spot from the chef and owner Shimon Maman and his partners. Mr. Maman was an owner of the 12 Chairs Cafes. (Thursday)

371 Broome Street (Mott Street), 646-590-6800, shooshoonolita.com.

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